About How Water Dries Out Your Skin & My Favourite Body Lotion

Water has amazing skin benefits – that is, internally. Externally the opposite applies, as water strips our skin from its natural oils causing dryness. In an environment like the tropics in which your skin’s exposure to water typically increases (more frequent showers, the luxury of a swimming pool at hand), necessary measures need to be taken and a good moisturizing body lotion is key to keep your skin in good condition. My favourite of the moment: Sukin Hydrating Body Lotion. Apart from doing what it should do (restoring the skin’s moisture balance) in a very substantial way and with a pleasant scent, it “doesn’t cost the earth” as the product is carbon neutral. Win-win!

In the tropics two factors add to my own increase in exposure to water, with drier skin than I’m used to as a result. First of all, the humidity and heat cause me to sweat more, so I shower at least twice, sometimes even three times a day (as opposed to one, max two times back in Europe).

Apart from this indispensable exposure to water, from our living room as well as my study room (from which I work as a freelance communications strategist, copywriter and – surprise- blogger) the swimming pool is visible and lures like a sparkling aquamarine gem of refreshment to just take a quick dive to take a cooling break from the blazing heat of the tropical sun…I often give in to this temptation.

I love our pool! <3

In addition, continuous exposure to air-conditioning causes my skin to dry out even more; the drier the air, the more moisture it will pull from your skin. Yikes! And even if you don’t use aircon much at home, think about all the other situations in which you are exposed to overly dry air-conditioned air like shops, restaurants, offices, taxis etc.

With increased exposure to water, my usage of body lotion increased as a logical consequence to prevent my skin from getting too dry. In europe I wouldn't pay so much attention to body lotion as I would use it only twice a week or so. But now that I apply this type of product on my skin at least two times or more a day, the search for the best body lotion became an important mission. And thankfully

How come Water dries out Skin?

The natural oils that our skin secretes help to seal moisture (internally distributed into our skin through blood vessels) within the skin; this is the skin’s natural moisturizing mechanism.

Water that comes in contact with the skin externally evaporates, and when it does it takes the skin's natural oils with it. The skin’s natural barrier is gone and the internal moisture is no longer sealed in but evaporates freely. The more often skin comes in contact with water, the drier and more flaky it gets, especially when that water is heavily chlorinated, like in a swimming pool.

The only things you can do to prevent your skin from getting drier and drier, is to avoid too much exposure to (chlorinated) water and aircon (i.e. rather impossible in the tropics) and moisturize your skin with a good body lotion that restores your skin's moisture balance. 

Moisturizing Basics

Moisturizers help treat your skin when it's dry and prevent it from drying out again through two basic ways: they either trap moisture in your skin to keep it from escaping, or they restore moisture in the outer layer of skin that’s already been lost.

There are three basic types of moisturizers; ecclusives, emollients and humectants. This youtube video (click here) summarizes the concepts and mechanisms very well. Never mind the video is talking about dry skin in wintertime; the principle is the same. And remember the impact of the Aircon, which is similar to the impact dry air in winter time has.

Good for your Skin AND the Earth

Copyright sukinorganics.com

Before moving to South East Asia, I had never heard of Sukin before and initially thought I had come across a niche brand of natural skincare. I’m not necessarily into the whole green, natural and eco way of living (I know I should be though…) and don’t actively search for products that fit this lifestyle. But if a product that I like is ‘green’ and natural, this is naturally a great plus.

Turns out that Sukin is Australia’s bestselling natural skin care brand, with a portfolio of lines extending over more than 60 products across face, body and hair. So the Aussie readers probably didn’t even bother reading this article; “been there, done that, using it for a million years already”.

I can totally imagine why Sukin is the bestselling natural skin care brand in Australia. Although ‘green’ and natural cosmetics became a lot more advanced over the past years as the trend and demand for it grew, my experience with these products is that as the top product feature is the fact that it’s green, you somehow always give in on another product feature, like scent or especially texture and absorbability.

This is definitely not the case for Sukin. The scents of the products are first of all amazing. Botanic and natural, yet not overwhelming or too subtle. Just right. Texture-wise, I find that the products I tried like the body lotion are as pleasant to use as any other of my favourite brands, even luxury cosmetics brands.

So first and foremost, I absolutely love this brand for its products. Secondly, how awesome is it that great products are not only good for us but also not harmful for our environment either?! Their tagline, “Skincare that doesn’t cost the earth” reflects the brand’s values in all possible ways;

• Natural plant-based formulations (cold-pressed, solvent free oils, essential oils and 100% natural botanical extracts);
• Earth friendly (100% Carbon Neutral, Cruelty Free, and Vegan) 
• Affordable prices

My Favourite Body Lotion: Sukin Hydrating Body Lotion

The Hydrating Body Lotion does look 'green' and eco (green colours, brown flacon, basic product design - nothing flashy), which isn't really my thing (I'm more the luxury type of gal) but isn't actually a turn off either as it is not screaming flower childs and free spirits. It's just kind of basic. According to Sukin's website, PET plastic is used for most full size products - with its plant-based raw material structure, the PET plastic is 100% recyclable.

When you pump the product out of the flacon, the body lotion seems somewhat thick. As soon as you’ll apply it onto your skin you’ll notice that the texture is far from thick and spreads out very easily instead. The scent is very aromatic and somewhat sweet, none of the ingredients is predominant and it’s more like a herbal infusion of scents.

Although the product description says to apply whilst skin is still moist (after bath or shower) for best results, I find that it is best to apply when the skin is not too moist. I applied the body lotion once when I still had some drops of water on my skin here and there, and this caused the lotion not to be absorbed immediately and leave streaks of product on my skin. So I use it on dry skin or skin that dried up well after showering.

To summarize: great product to use in great quantities because of its scent, texture, great value for money, and natural ingredients and ‘green’ ethos without compromizing on product features.

Sukin "Hydrating Body Lotion - Original Scent", 500ml
Price: 14 SGD for 250ml; 21,90 SGD for 500ml
Available at a.o. Guardian (find stores here)

Removing the most Waterproof Mascara with Japanese ‘Heroine Make’ Mascara Remover

A good waterproof mascara is key to survive the tropics looking good. Not because of the heat or humidity (smudging mascara due to the climate is an entirely different topic), but because of the many tropical rain showers that typically break loose the exact moment you walk home from the MRT after a long day of work. Or from the nail bar, in case you don’t work (just kidding). But also more pleasurable moments like a lazy poolside Sunday or –so spoiled- the fifth time you spend a weekend at the beach in Bali this year. The downside of waterproof mascara is however the difficulty to remove it without irritating your eyes or damaging your lashes. Although there are many waterproof eye makeup removers available, these typically still involve some rubbing and tend to leave the eyes oily and sticky. Japanese superhero makeup brand “Heroine Make” has a special mascara remover that promises to remover stubborn mascara without rubbing…

To start: a quick explanation on why smudging mascara due to the climate is an entirely different topic than smudging mascara due to rain or tears.

In the tropics, many women resort to waterproof mascaras to avoid their mascara from transferring to the skin around their eyes – a problem they didn’t find back home, at least not in the extent that mascara smudges in a hot and humid climate. I find myself often in makeup-related discussions with friends, in which smudgy mascara is mentioned as number one tropical beauty frustration, besides the obvious frizzy hair. “What mascara do you recommend? Waterproof for sure, right?" Well, not necessarily.

Waterproof doesn’t equal smudge proof. There are quite some waterproof mascaras that still smudge, because it’s the oil in your skin (and/or makeup) and not water that comes into contact with the mascara on your lashes. It’s as simple as that; an unfortunate interplay between the mascara on your lashes and the condition of the skin around your eyes. In a hot and humid environment, your skin tends to be more oily and/or sweaty, which, when in contact with your mascara, is the perfect recipe for stains.

Quick solution to prevent mascara from smudging (left) in a hot and humid climate; apply a loose powder on the skin around the eyes that tends to catch stains. Application is very easy with an eye sweep brush like Bobbi Brown's (right).

The solution is therefore mostly twofold: besides finding a mascara that works well for you, make sure to take appropriate measures to avoid the skin around your eyes from inviting your mascara to smudge, like using a powder to blot the area around your eyes. Read more here; a current can’t-live-without favorite is definitely MAC’s Prep + Prime Transparent Finishing Powder. But that’s not wat I want to talk about in this post.

“So…when DO I wear waterproof mascara, if it isn't to avoid smudging?” 

Well, in situations that involve water or moderate to heavy tears. Water from the sea or the pool, tears from joy over the best dim sum you ever had at Paradise Dynasty or tears from sorrow because Cold Storage again doesn't have the favorite Dutch cheese you've been missing so much. Or both water and tears, like when you get soaked for the 10th time in one day from yet another tropical Singapore rain shower.

What would I do without these?!

There are waterproof mascaras that are pretty waterproof, like those from Western brands such as Lancôme, YSL and Dior, but in my experience these products don’t do much for your lashes volume-wise. And then there are Japanese mascaras. A league on its own. With these mascaras from brands like ‘Heroine Make’ and ‘Majolica Majorca’, you can probably cross the ocean swimming with lasting intense and voluminous lashes, even when the mascara's are not explicitly labelled as waterproof.

The downside is that they tend to be even harder to remove than their Western counterparts. The stuff sticks like cement; during a road trip through Australia last November, I reached the ultimate point of HBN, Holiday Beauty Neglect, not bothering to wear makeup anymore because I most likely wouldn't be running into anyone I know and if I would, that person would most likely be in a severe state of HBN too. I was however too lazy to remove the Heroine Make mascara I had been wearing, and my lashes kept covered in the mascara for at least 5 days, not kidding. Luckily, Heroine Make has a special mascara remover – the product even looks like a mascara.

Heroine Make Mascara Remover Promises:

• No rubbing required to remove stubborn mascara
• Gentle to your precious lashes, contains moisturizing ingredients to keep lashes healthy.
• A formula that is not irritating to the eyes

English Product Description and Directions on the back of the product

Directions:

• Apply the remover evenly with the comb from the base of the eyelashes to the end
• Leave it 2-3 minutes
• Wipe off gently with cotton from the base; it is also possible to apply your regular makeup remover over it. Blend well, and then rinse off with lukewarm water. 
• Before putting the comb in the container after use, wipe it clean with a tissue.

When I opened it, I was a bit surprised not to find a typical mascara brush wand, but something that looks more like a plastic stick instead. Not even a comb, really.

The not-so-comb-like comb

I tested Heroine Make's mascara remover with different mascaras:

• Heroine Make, Long & Curl Mascara - an allrounder, separates lashes well.
• Heroine Make, Impact Frame Curl Mascara - HEAVY stuff; for thick, doll-like, somewhat clumpy lashes. Not for everyone, but I love it.
• Majolica Majorca, Lash King - amazing but not for beginners I'd say; contains little fibres that stick to your lashes for lengthening and thickening.
• Lancome, Hypnose Drama Waterproof - this used to be my absolute favorite before I got acquainted with the unmatchable Japanese mascaras.

The remover product on the wand is transparent and quite fluid; initially I tried to brush the stick wand over my eyelashes, but this resulted in splashes of product bouncing off my hard waterproof lashes onto my cheeks, so I continued with a more dabbing approach instead that seemed to work well. After 2 minutes, the mascara started to loosen, i.e. visibly transfer to the skin around my eyes.

Clockwise from top left: 1 layer of Heroine Make Impact Frame Curl Mascara; a cotton pad with water doesn't take off any of this ultra waterproof mascara; dabbing Heroine Make's Mascara Remover, mascara visible loosens; a neat streak of mascara comes off instead of an oily mess.

The 2 minutes waiting is no deal as none of the liquid gets into your eyes, which is definitely the first big advance over regular eye makeup remover. I wiped my mascara off with a slightly wetted cotton pad as a dry one didn’t feel comfortable, and was able to take the mascara off in 2 or 3 sweeps with the pad. I LOVE THIS – the mascara goes off really neatly as opposed to the usual oily mess I experience removing my mascara with a cotton pad drenched in regular eye makeup remover (like Lancome's Bi-Facil).

Left: The oily mess that a cotton pad with regular eye makeup remover brings.

Right: Much less mess with Heroine Make's Mascara Remover and a wet cotton pad.

Regular waterproof eye makeup removers often have a very oily substance, that stains all across my face and forms a very unpleasant film in my eyes that I keep feeling for up to an hour. Although Heroine Make's Mascara Remover contains oil (Camelia Oil and Rosehip Oil; furthermore, Panax Ginseng Root extract and Royal Jelly Extract), there's seriously no oily traces left in or around my eyes. So much less mess.

All four different mascaras I removed with Heroine Make's Mascara Remover came off very easy, but Heroine Make's Long & Curl Mascara came of fastest. Afterwards, my lashes did feel softer than after using a regular remover! I cannot think of a single downside of this product and from now on it will definitely become a standard in my makeup kit.

Heroine Make Mascara Remover, 6ml
Price: 14,90 SGD
Available at a.o. Sasa (find stores here) and Watsons (find stores here)

Asian Ingredients Discovered: Horse Oil

Of all Asian Ingredients that I am putting to the test, this is the ingredient I dread most to try: Horse Oil. The name itself already makes me shiver - suddenly Bird’s Nest and Pig Placenta don’t seem so bad anymore... 

The popularity of this ingredient in Asian cosmetics however cannot be denied. Included in the 16th Century standard work for Traditional Chinese Medicine and used by the Japanese as a folk remedy since ancient times, the past years this ingredient has been embraced by beauty innovation heaven South Korea as well. Last year,  Alicia Yoon, a Harvard Business School graduate and co-founder of Korean beauty site Peach and Lily, predicted donkey milk and horse oil to be the newest trends in Korean skincare in New York Magazine.

As far as I can judge she’s right; skincare products from both Japan and South-Korea with horse oil as active ingredient are widely available and promoted in Singapore. Judging the amount of FAKE products (yes you read this correctly, we're not talking counterfeit Vuitton bags here but fake horse oil creams...) on the market, we're dealing with something quite special here.

Benefits of Horse Oil

Orange and brown seem to be THE trending horse oil colours in cosmetics...

As said, medicinal benefits of horse oil go back as early as 16th century China, where it was recorded in the Chinese "Compendium of Materia Medica" (Chinese: Bencao Gangmu or Pen-tsao Kang-mu), a work that is regarded as the most complete and comprehensive medical book ever written in the history of traditional Chinese medicine. According to the record, horse oil promotes hair growth, prevent freckles, treats piles and chapped skin, as well as relieves tired muscles.

Nowadays, horse oil adoptees praise the ingredient in skincare for the following reasons:

• Healing properties in treating damaged skin suffering from sunburn, roughness and irritation; 
• Strong moisturizing properties 
• Replenishment of nutrients to skin
• Easy absorption rate due to a fatty acid structure said to be similar to that of human sebum. 

…But what about the horses?!

Well this horse doesn't seem to mind much...kind of freaky though if you ask me, looking so cheery on top of a pack with your own contents...

Let's indeed not forget about the horses, and other animals for that matter. Where possible I choose to use products that are animal friendly and are not tested on animals nor containing ingredients from animals (I'm a vegetarian for 17 years now, actually). When you look at these ingredient lists from PETA and Choose Cruelty Free you’ll realize that this is tougher than it seems to use cosmetics ingredients that are not derived from animals in any way.

For example, Lanolin (derivatives: Aliphatic Alcohols, Cholesterin, Isopropyl Lanolate, Laneth, Lanogene, Lanolin Alcohols, Lanosterols, Sterols, Triterpene Alcohols) is a product of the oil glands of sheep, extracted from their wool. In cosmetics it’s used as an emollient and is found in most lipsticks and makeup removers.

Even Retinol, a potent source of vitamin A and the star active ingredient of in many anti-aging products, is mostly an animal-based ingredient.

Stearic acids (derivatives: Stearamide, Stearamine, Stearates, Stearic Hydrazide, Stearone, Stearoxytrimethylsilane, Stearoyl Lactylic Acid, Stearyl Betaine, Stearyl Imidazoline )  refers to a fatty substance mostly taken from the stomachs of pigs and is used in a.o. makeup, soaps, hairspray, conditioners, deodorants, creams. And the list goes on and on…

According to one of the brands that offers skincare with horse oil, the oil is obtained from horses that are slaughtered for their meat (traditionally, the Japanese have a custom of eating horse meat, raw and in thin slices) and not killed for their oil per se. Some brands (a.o.Son Bahyu) that offer products with horse oil state that the horse oil comes from fat from the horse meat, whereas others (a.o. Kaeru) state the oil is extracted from horse mane, the base of tale and subcutaneous fat layer.

The Best-Seller: Guerisson 9 Complex Cream

Guerisson 9 Complex Cream with Horse Oil is regarded a cult product in Asia and one of the top selling skincare products from South Korea. The look of the product is equestrian chic and reminds me of (no big surprise - the founders of equestrian chic) Hermès - same orange colours, same style. Although the price isn’t that high (I remeber seeing it for around 38 SGD on Changi Airport) many fake versions of this cream which may contain unknown (and potentially dangerous) ingredients are flooding the market. The counterfeit creams are abundant enough that there are several online resources dedicated solely to identifying counterfeit versions of the Guerisson 9 product. In some instances, the retailers that offer fake products aren’t even aware that the product they carry isn’t the real deal.

Apart from counterfeit Guerisson products that are difficult to identify, several brands seem to have simply compied the look of Guerisson's product (that copied it from Hermes, but soit) - see examples below.

Although Guerisson's cream is the ultimate horse oil cult product, I decided to opt for a simple face mask with horse oil (hereby immedialy avoiding the chance to purchase and smear-on a fakey). As a bloggin test bunny I do believe I should try a product with horse oil but seriously don’t plan to EVER use such a product again.

Product Review: Medi Heal "Horse Oil Proatin Mask"

I tried Medi Heal’s “Horse Oil Proatin Mask”, with Jeju Horse Oil. Jeju is a volcanic island off the South Korean coast, and in Korean cosmetics the principle of “everything that comes from Jeju is good” applies. There are even brands that thrive solely on ingredients from Jeju, like popular Korean cosmetics brand Innisfree, which uses ingredients like sea mustard & gulfweed, nutmeg, volcanic clay, tangerine, green peas, green tea and camelia (no horse oil though) and regards the island as “the pure island where clean nature and healthy beauty coexist in harmony”. If we apply the same principle to this mask, apparently even the horses from Jeju are pure, clean and pristine. At least that’s a relieve.

According to the ingredient list, apart from horse oil (10,000 ppm) the product also contains several stearate derivatives (glyceryl stearate, stearic acid, PEG-100 stearate), which indicates that the product could contain other ingredients from animals as well.  Apart from the ingredient list and some key ingredients (basically all amino acids - the building blocks of the proteins that make up collagen and elastin substances that give the skin its structural support; used in skincare for antioxidant properties, wound-healing abilities) that are mentioned on the front of the sachet, all text is in Korean.

Fortunately, Mediheal’s website explains a bit more about the amino acids and why the mask is called “proatin”:

"Horse oil Proatin Mask contains excellent skin friendly components unsaturated fatty acid and ceramide, effective on protein absorption. 'Proatin' comes from 'Protein' + 'Amino Acid'. A combination of amino acids and peptides containing protein ingredients, can strengthen skin barrier, maintain skin elasticity and vitality."

Right. This doesn't literally comply with the general beliefs about the benefits of horse oil (i.e. healing properties in treating damaged skin suffering from sunburn, roughness and irritation; strong moisturizing properties; replenishment of nutrients to skin), but more with the benefits of the added amino acids. Let's just blame my lack of Korean (or the company's lack of marketing efforts...) and see what the product does.

What I’m freaked out about is that the product might smell like horses. My sister used to do horse riding as a her hobby when we were kids, and I remember that I found the horsey smell that she brought home from the stables absolutely repulsive.

Fortunately, the product has no distinct horse smell, but a fresh scent like any other sheet mask I've tried. First hurdle taken. However, this relieve was only short, because when I opened the pack the texture looked thick and gooey. Ewwwww! Some product even splashed out of the pack when I opened it. The sheet mask is really richly drenched in the product, and a lot of product stays behind in the pack after taking out the sheet mask. On my face the product fortunately doesn't feel so thick and regardless of the overload of product, the masks stays well in place - like most other Asian sheet masks, the fit of the sheet mask isn't great though especially at the eyes.

I kept the mask on for 20 minutes (!!!) and when you don't rinse off the leftover product with water your face really looks incredibly shiny and even feels somewhat oily. I rinsed off with water twice and still have a bit of a shine going on, it is clear that the product is too rich for my skin . Like said on other beauty blogs, this product is probably great for people with incredibly dry skin. Not for me though, for more reasons than the fact that my skin isn't dry...

Price: 6,00 SGD (currently only 2,00 SGD, with 66% discount)
Available at Althea

Sunscreen in your Makeup Routine – Favourite sunblocks that don’t feel thick and sticky

We all know the sun is strong in the tropics - did you know the UV Index scale goes from 1 to 11+, and that the sun in Singapore reaches a UV level of 13 (!!!) on a daily basis?! Meaning that we basically fall off the UV scale. We also know we SHOULD wear a sunblock. But the prejudice about sunblock is still that these types of products are sticky, chalky and make your skin feel oily. And unfortunately a lot of them are - but thankfully not all. There are great products around to include in your daily beauty routine, whether this is to layer the sunblock under a heavy layer of makeup or au naturel. This article starts with some 'Sun 101' knowledge to continue with 'Suncare 101', to arrive at the Grande Finale of the best sunblocks available. 

With medium fair skin, dark brown hair and green-greyish eyes I generally don’t get a sunburn easily; until I moved to Singapore. Without sun protection, half an hour in the Singaporean sun between noon and 4pm means a sunburn on the sensitive and thin skin of my chest and sometimes in my face as well.

Understanding WHY always helps me to make smart and informed choices (like wearing sunblock, a hat in afternoon sun), but if you don’t need to be educated just scroll down to the purpose of this post - a list of the best and most user-friendly sunblocks (goodbye shine and stickiness!) to include in your daily beauty routine, fighting the strong and intense sun in South East Asia. For the ones who are as inquisitive as I am, let’s start with a summary of all you need to know about UV, UV-index and UV in Singapore. 

1. What is UV radiation? 

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation is a form of electromagnetic radiation. The main source of UV radiation (rays) is the sun, although it can also come from man-made sources such as tanning beds. 
In general, radiation exists across a spectrum from very high-energy (high-frequency) radiation – like x-rays and gamma rays – to very low-energy (low-frequency) radiation – like radio waves. UV rays have more energy than visible light, but not as much as x-rays.

Sunlight contains UV rays; although they make up only a very small portion of the sun’s rays, they are the main cause of the sun’s damaging effects on the skin.

2. What is the difference between UVA and UVB rays?

UVA RAYS are long-wave rays, that penetrate deeper into our skin. These rays age skin cells and can damage their DNA. Moreover, these rays are linked to long-term skin damage such as wrinkles, but they are also thought to play a role in some skin cancers. Most tanning beds give off large amounts of UVA.

UVB RAYS are short-wave rays that the chief cause of skin reddening and sunburn. These rays tend to damage the skin's more superficial epidermal layers and have slightly more energy than UVA rays. They can damage skin cells’ DNA directlyand are also thought to cause most skin cancers.

                          

Source: www.skincancer.org

When sun protection covers both UVA/UVB radiation, it is labelled broad spectrum protection.

3. What does the Sun Index or ‘UV index’ in weather forecasts measure? 

The UV Index is an international standard index that describes the level of solar UV radiation at the earth’s surface.  The index ranges from 0 to 11+ and the values are grouped into various exposure categories. A higher index value indicates a greater potential for harmful effects to the skin and eyes. 

Source: Singapore National Environment Agency

If a light-skinned individual (without sunscreen or a suntan) begins to sunburn in 30 minutes at UV Index 6, then that individual should expect to sunburn in about 15 minutes at UV Index 12 – twice the UV, twice as fast.

A Sun Index forecast generally refers to the daily maximum; in Singapore, the UV index is measured at the Changi Meteorological Station and is reported hourly between 7 am and 7 pm. This reported UV index represents its average value for the past hour. You can find the current UV index at the website and app of Singapore’s National Environment Agency (NEA)

4. How strong is the sun in Singapore?

This is where it starts to get interesting – I for one was shocked to find out how strong exactly the sun is in Singapore. According to measurements of the World Health Organization (WHO), at 1 degree North of the equator, the maximal UV index of Singapore is 13. Keep in mind the international UV index scale actually goes as far up as to 11+...

I listed some countries’ maximal UV indexes (see WHO source) below to illustrate how extreme the UV radiation can get in Singapore:

Below chart (it's from the NEA site, quality not optimal - sorry) on the left shows how seasonality affects UV index levels in Singapore. On a daily basis, we deal with an average UV index of 8.

In the chart on the right you can see that between noon and 3pm, the UV index typically reaches measurements above 9 in Singapore, including the maximum level of 13 as reported by the WHO:

 

Can we finally talk beauty now...?!

Can lah - here we go! 

5. What is the difference between Physical and Chemical Filters in Sun Care products?

The protection mechanism in a sunscreen is either a 'physical' or a 'chemical' UV filter, or a combination of both.

PHYSICAL SUNSCREENS contain active mineral ingredients that protect our skin by laying physically on top of it to deflect and scatter damaging UV rays away from the skin.

Physical UV Filters: Titanium Dioxide & Zinc Oxide.

Main Advantages:
+ Less likely to irritate sensitive skin
+ Protects from sun immediately after application, no need to wait
+ Last longer than chemical filters in direct UV light, because they don't decompose through sun exposure. (N.B. NOT when doing physical activities that cause the skin to get wet or sweat; physical filters rub off quicker)
+ Less likely to irritate sensitive skin and less likely to be pore-clogging for blemish-prone skin

Main Disadvantages:
- Often leave a white film or streaks on the skin and.or leave a sticky feeling after application
- The formula's tend to be a bit thicker so they may be more difficult to apply.
- May look too chalky and opaque for daily use under makeup
- Last shorter than chemical sunscreens when doing physical activities that cause the skin to get wet or sweat; rubs off quicker
- If not enough product is applied or application is not done evenly, UV light can get between the sunscreen molecules and still reach the skin

CHEMICAL SUNSCREENS contain organic (carbon-based) filters that create a chemical reaction that dissipates the heat back off the skin by absorbing the UV rays.

Chemical UV Filters: Octylcrylene, Avobenzone, Octinoxate, Octisalate, Oxybenzone, Homosalate, Helioplex, 4-MBC, Mexoryl SX and XL, Tinosorb S and M, Uvinul T 150, Uvinul A Plus.

Main Advantages:
+ The formula tends to be thinner and more fluid; spreads more easily on the skin which makes it more wearable for daily use, and more suitable to use under makeup.
+ Less product is needed to protect the skin
+ Additional active ingredients can more easily be added to a formula containing chemical sun filters, such as peptides and enzymes, which offer other skin benefits that can make a product a more allround skincare product as opposed to just a sunscreen.

Main Disadvantages: 
- Doesn't protect from the sun immediately after application, but requires about 20 minutes after application before it begins to work instead.
- The higher the SPF (such as formulas of SPF 50 or greater), the higher the risk of irritation for sensitive skin types
- The protection offered gets used up more quickly when in direct UV light, so reapplication must be more frequent
- Increased chance of redness for rosacea-prone skin types because it changes UV rays into heat which can exacerbate flushing
- May clog the pores of oily skin

6. So which type of UV filter is better?

This is an ongoing debate amongst scientists, dermatologist and concerned consumers. Although some people are very outspoken about their choice for chemical or physical filters (mainly the latter), both physical and chemical sunscreens do a good job at protecting your skin, as long as the product is applied properly. Since they each have their advantages and disadvantages, an increasing amount of sunscreens contain both physical and chemical UV filters

Best is to try both types (or a combination) and see how your skin reacts and how pleasant you find a certain product, especially if you want to use the product under your makeup on a daily base. It's really all about preference and personal experience; keep in mind that not necessarily all physical sunscreens leave a sticky and white film (these filters are getting more and more advanced) and that not all chemical sunscreens cause skin irritation or other problems, as preached by some.

7. What is the difference between the labels 'SPF' and 'PA' in Suncare products?

The SPF rating  is a measurement of the protection a sunscreen offers against UVB rays, the rays that cause sunburn, whereas PA indicates the protection that is offered against the deeper penetrating, more damaging UVA rays that cause skin wrinkling, leathering, and other signs of sun damage or "photo-aging".

Note that as most labels state that the sunscreen offers broad spectrum protection against both UVA and UVB rays, the SPF rating indicates ONLY the level of protection against UVB rays. Based on the SPF number alone you don't know how much protection you are getting against the deeper penetrating, more damaging UVA rays.

Until recently, there was no rating system for the level of protection a sunscreen offers against UVA rays. Fortunately, an increasing amount of products are labelled as PA+, PA++ or PA+++: the more plus symbols the label has, the more protection the sunscreen provides against UVA rays.

8. Is a SPF in makeup like my liquid foundation or powder sufficient?

Many foundations and other makeup products like primers and finishing powders offer a built-in SPF. Is this a smart beauty solution?

The answer is NO – although every little bits help, the advertised SPF in makeup products does not provide sufficient coverage when you spent time in the full sun (on the beach, reading on your balcony, a coffee with friends on a terrace, cycling, hiking etc). In the latter case you better opt for a sunscreen or sunblock.

On WebMD.com, Dermatologist Leslie Baumann, MD, says the following:

"Makeup does not provide enough coverage, you need seven times the normal amount of foundation and 14 times the normal amount of powder to get the sun protection factor on the label. No one does this."

Other online sources and dermatologists state that makeup products with at least SPF15 should however be adequate when you spend most of your day inside and only face the sun for everyday activities like travelling to and from work, running errands, picking up the kids from school etc. That is, in Europe or the US. For Singapore's extreme UV index it is advised to amp up the SPF level to at least SPF30, preferably SPF50. Last year Bobbi Brown launched a serum foundation with SPF40 that I'm a big fan of myself; Intensive Skin Serum Foundation SPF40, 85 SGD.

Also don't forget to pay attention to the quality of SPF in makeup as this varies quite a bit and some don’t offer broad spectrum protection (UVA/UVB).

9. What about skincare, like moisturizers with SPF?

The professional opinion regarding moisturizers with SPF is similar to makeup with SPF; for everyday activities YES it's sufficient when above SPF15, for a dedicated day in the sun NO; for Singapore however it's wise to make it SPF30 or preferably SPF50.

10. So sunblocks it is, that we'll be talking. What are the best, most pleasant to use sunblocks available, especially when wearing a layer of makeup on top?

The prejudice about sun blocks is often that these type of products are sticky, chalky and make your skin feel oily. Too be honest, a lot of them are, unfortunately. The association with thick and sticky iridescent white layers was exactly why I was initially resenting the idea of wearing a sunblock under my makeup. 

Fortunately I found quite some sunblocks that do not live up to the expectation of stickiness and are actually very pleasant for daily use, even layered under makeup (apply on your face after moisturizer and before applying makeup). 

Still, between the overwhelming choices for sun protection products - especially in Asia where most locals make it a sport to block out the sun in all ways possible - finding the right product can be challenging. 

Below list is based on personal favourites and advice from fellow expat friends who are just as picky and demanding as I am when it comes to beauty products. 

BIORE - UV Watery Gel SPF 50+ / PA++++

Right: a drop of the product + the product when it's absorbed on top (i.e. invisible :))

In the world of cosmetics and skincare, the sun-fearing Japanese are very well-known for their advanced suncare. This product is the ultimate value for money, and I'm addicted. The water-based texture spreads easily and get absorbed in only seconds, without leaving behind a white cast or a sticky feeling. Meaning you can apply your makeup immediately. Seriously, like magic no product seems to be left on your skin. 

Upon first sight little particles are visible in the emulsion but these disappear immediately as well; according to the product description, these particles are "unique Aqua Micro Capsules with UV block ingredient to provide superior SPF 50+/PA++++ protection while keeping skin cool and refreshed". Aha.

A closeup of the texture, in which the Aqua Micro Capsules are visible

This sun block is furthermore enriched with Hyaluronic Acid & Citrus essence to hydrate and soften skin. Apart from the pleasant texture I like that it's suitable to be used on both face and body, great for slathering on your decolete or shoulders or other sun-sensitive body parts when you're in a hurry to leave home.

UVA Protection: PA++++
UVB Protection: SPF 50
UV Filters: Chemical (Octinoxate, Tinosorb, Uvinul A Plus & Uvinul T 150)
Fragrance: Lightly perfumed (fresh, citrus-like scent)
Oil-free: Yes
Non-Comedogenic: Unknown
Absorption: Immediately
Price per ml: 0,17 SGD ($)

Price: 16 SGD for 90ml

Available at a.o. Watsons, Guardian, Selektiv' by Sasa.

Chanel - UV Essentiel SPF 50 / PA+++

Another personal favorite, but at the other side of the price spectrum than Biore finds itself. Good thing is that you only need a few drops to cover your entire face. This daytime moisturizer has a very light, very fluid texture with a velvety feel and soft matte finish. Like Biore, it's absorbed immediately. 

According to the product description, a free-radical and anti-pollution shield with a Vitamin E derivative and plant extracts empowers this oil-free, lightweight formula to safeguard skin against environmental pollutants. Licorice Root Extract and a highly effective combination of UVA and UVB filters help diminish and prevent the appearance of dark spots and signs of premature aging.

UVA Protection: PA+++
UVB Protection: SPF 50
UV Filters: Both Chemical (Octinoxate) & Physical (Zinc Oxide)
Fragrance: Yes (light & fresh; similar to other Chanel skincare products)
Oil-free: Yes
Non-Comedogenic: Yes
Absorption: Immediately
Price per ml: 2,83 SGD ($$$$)

Price: 85 SGD for 30ml

Available at Chanel Beauty counters a.o. Tang's and Takashimaya.

Clinique - Super City Block Oil-Free Daily Face Protector SPF 40

I know many women who love this sun block, and on beauty rating websites reviews are mostly raving. Personally however, I find the formula a bit too sticky for my skin. Half an hour and even longer after application my skin still feels sticky. Not as sticky as most sunscreens, but I do feel there's product laying on my skin.

The texture feels somewhat slick and oily upon application and this product has colour correcting element that give the product a light nude-pinkish colour; when applied on the face the colour disappears but leaves a glowy, dewy effect - I guess it's this dewy effect that I experience as somewhat sticky. Anway;

The inclusion of a variety of antioxidants like chestnut rose extract, matricaria extract, cucumber extract, gentian root extract, and vitamins C and E is one of the reasons why this product scores so high in reviews; Paula's Choice (link to article) points out that research has demonstrated that antioxidants, when formulated into a broad-spectrum sunscreen formula, boost its effectiveness in defending your skin against UV and other environmental free radicals (Journal of Long Term Effects of Medical Implants, 2004 and Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 2012).

UVA Protection: PA+++
UVB Protection: SPF 40
UV Filters: Physical (Zinc Oxide, Titanium Oxide) & Chemical (Octinoxate, Octisalate)
Fragrance: No
Oil-free: Yes
Non-Comedogenic: Yes
Absorption: Supposedly 5 minutes; leaves a sticky feeling on my skin for at least half an hour.
Price per ml: 0,87 SGD ($$)

Price: 46 SGD for 40ml
Available at Clinique counters at a.o. Tang's, Takashimaya and Isetan and at Sephora.

Kiehl's - Ultra Light Daily UV Defense SPF 50 / PA+++

Not to be mistaken by Kiehl's "Activated Sun Protector for Face SPF50" in 100ml, which is a sunscreen for occassional use like beach holidays or active days in the sun (it's water resistant). Although this sunscreen is a great product, last year Kiehl's developped a product that is similar but suitable for daily use, especially as a layer under makeup: Ultra Light Daily UV Defense SPF 50 PA+++.

The texture of the product seems initially less fluid than Biore or Chanel's, but does spread out easily and is absorbed quickly; for the eye immediately, and after around 5 minutes you won't feel the product on your skin anymore either. 

It contains a.o: Vitamin E, a powerful antioxidant known for its ability to help protect against skin-damaging free-radicals and Rose Gallica, a plant extract from the French Rose flower known for its soothing and calming benefits

Great thing about Kiehl's is that the staff in their boutiques and counters is always incredibly helpful, patient and knowledgable and you can get a free sample so you can try the product at home under your makeup first before you buy the full size product. What I furthermore love about this product is that it is completely fragrance free. 

UVA Protection: PA+++
UVB Protection: SPF 50
UV Filters: Chemical 
Fragrance: No
Oil-free: Yes (mineral oil free)
Non-Comedogenic: Yes
Absorption: +/- 5 minutes
Price per ml: 1,73 SGD ($$$)

Price: 52 SGD for 30ml

Available at Kiehl's counters in department stores such as Tang's or Kiehl's Boutiques (find here).

Lancome - UV Expert XL Shield Fresh UV Aqua Gel SPF 50/PA++++ 

Lancôme offers quite some different sunscreens within their UV Expert line. Besides this Aqua Gel, a BB cream version is available as well as a regular cream. I must say that texture-wise I didn't experience much difference between the Aqua Gel and the regular cream; the Aqua Gel is not quite what I expected for a gel and reminds me more of a very fluid cream instead. 

Either way, the texture of this product is very fresh and weightless and is easily absorbed by the skin. It leaves a smooth matte finish. The scent of the product (same for the regular cream) very strongly reminds me of a typical sunscreen product, which is a product feature that I'm not too fond of. 

According to the product description, the Fresh UV Aqua Gel contains 'Coolact 10', "a sensory agent developed to offer a freshness similar to that of menthol, its cool touch reduces the skin’s temperature upon application". In addition the product contains rose petal extract that helps to soothe heated and reddened skin. Moreover, Lancôme’s XL- ShieldTM technology implies a filtering system that offers 12-hour persistent protection that spans the UVB – UVA – XL-UVA (long UV rays) spectrum, as well as a pollution shield with a complex of active ingredients that combats free radicals and prevents pollutant particles and carbon molecules from adhering to the skin. 

UVA Protection: PA++++

UVB Protection: SPF 50

UV Filters: Chemical (Mexoryl SX and Mexoryl XL, Benzophenone-3, Octyl Methoxycinnamate) & Physical (Titanium Dioxide) 

Fragrance: Yes

Oil-free: Unknown

Non-Comedogenic: Unknown

Absorption: 1-2 minutes

Price per ml: 2,50 SGD ($$$)

Price: 75 SGD for 30 ml

Available at Lancome Beauty counters a.o. Tang's, Takashimaya & Isetan and at Sephora.

Clarins - UV Plus Anti-Pollution SPF 50 / PA++++

This product used to exist in an SPF40 with only physical UV filters; somewhere halfway 2019 however the product was reformulated and now contains bot physical and chemical UV filters. 

The texture of this product is really very light and fluid (watery, nearly liquid) and is very easy to apply. Absorption is fast; almost immediately for the eye, but it takes up to two minutes not to actually feel the product anymore. It's available in three colour-correcting shades (Translucent, Rosy Glow & Fairness) and is said to be rich in plant extracts; what extracts these are and what they do is however not elaborated upon in the product description on the Singapore website of Clarins.

At a Clarins counter I was told that this product contains organic Cantaloupe, an anti-oxidant from the Provence (?!). According to the US website of Clarins, the product contains White Tea (said to strengthen the skin against harmful environmental agressors) and Succory Dock-Cress (for its anti-pollution properties).

I love that the Translucent version is available in 2 sizes, 30ml and 50ml, which is great for travelling or just to keep the smaller version in your purse for touch ups.

UVA Protection: PA++++

UVB Protection: SPF 50

UV Filters: Chemical (Homosalate, Octocrylene, Oxybenzonen) & Physical (Titanium Dioxide)

Fragrance: Yes 

Oil-free: Yes

Non-Comedogenic: Unknown
Absorption: 1-2 minutes

Price per ml: 2,46 SGD ($$$$)

Price: 74 SGD for 30ml; the 'Transparent' version is also available in 50ml, for 95 SGD.

Available at Clarins counters at a.o. Tang's, Takashimaya & Isetan and at Sephora.

Lancaster - Skin Therapy Day SHield SPF 50 / PA+++

Allround sunblock that has a light-weight texture (in Lancaster's marketing jargon it's labelled as "Invisible touch texture") that is quickly absorbed by the skin. What I love about this product is the fact that it comes in a pump tube, which is both practical and hygienic in use.

According to the product description, "Lancaster Skin Therapy Day Shield SPF 50 PA+++ provides a protective layer of skin defence against the sun. It is formulated with powerful agents that fight skin-damaging free radicals." Moreover, it is said to keep skin radiant which is somewhat true as a VERY slight sheer dewy effect is visible, but (fortunately) not as extreme as with Clinique's Super City Sun Block. 

I have a friend (total beauty addict too) living in the Indonesian Tropics who swears by this product and must say that when I tried it in store I liked it as well. Online aren't many reviews available however, so we have to trust my friend on this one (she insisted I included this product in this list).

UVA Protection: PA+++

UVB Protection: SPF 50

UV Filters: Chemical (Octylcrylene, Avobenzone, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (ensulizole))

Fragrance: Yes

Oil-free: Unknown

Non-Comedogenic: Yes

Absorption: 1-2 minutes
Price per ml: 2,23 SGD ($$$)

Price: 67 SGD for 30ml; 

Available at a.o. Sephora.