Feeling Absolutely Reborn with Traditional Chinese Magic Mushrooms: Soo Beaute's Oriental Herbal Essence "Ganoderma-Ginseng Mask"

What’s that strange, knobly brown fungus that is displayed on all kinds of Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) pills, powders and beauty products, that was traditionally considered to be among the most valuable possessions a new bride could bring into a marriage in ancient China? Personally I think it looks like some sort of alien brains, but nevertheless I put this TCM allstar to the test with Soo Beaute’s Oriental Herbal Essence “Ganoderma-Ginseng Mask”.

Traditional Chinese Medicine – initially I would stay away as far as possible from the aisles stuffed with shiny red and gold product packaging, displaying the strangest herbs and fungi pills, powders and tonics with names such as “blood cleanser”, “kidney booster” and "liver purifier".

This part of Asian culture however fascinates me more and more, especially related to beauty products. After having tried beauty products with a.o. bird’s nest, pearl powder and horse fat I consider myself ready to step up my game and try out something with a strange fungus as ingredient, a knobly, brain-like fungus that I’ve seen a lot on the packs of TCM pills and powders and ‘fresh’ (dried, that is) in the small herbal shops in Singapore’s Chinatown and that I encountered during trips in Hong Kong and Shanghai as well. What is this strange stuff and what are the benefits to the skin?

My globetrotting, always open-to-adventure godmother couldn't resist to check out the TCM dried lizards 

in Singapore's Chinatown when she was visiting me this spring...

Herbalist Emperors and Prosperous Brides

The knobly, alien brain-like brown fungus is called Ganoderma lucidum and this mushroom species is known across the world under different names like Reishi, Ling Zhi, Lucid Ganoderma, and Linh Chi. It grows on wood in tropical regions and is therefore also referred to as shelf mushrooms or bracket fungi.

It was first described more than 2400 years ago during the Shu Dynasty. During the Han Dynasty (206 B.C.~ 8 AD) legendary herbalist-emperor Shen Nong described it as a superior herb that “serves to maintain life, causes no side effects by continuous use, and promotes radiant health and long life by helping to harmonize the functions of the body, mind and spirit”.

A Famille-Rose lobed bowl showing a leafy sprig of lingzhi - although being a mushroom, lingzhi does not have leaves. 
Copyright Sotheby's - read a great article on Lingzhi in Chinese art here.

Ganoderma or Lingzhi (i.e. the most common names in TCM) is widely depicted in Asian art, architecture and design and can be seen everywhere in the Forbidden City and the Summer Palace in Beijing, a testimony to how highly it was valued in Chinese society throughout history - even the traditional scepter of the Chinese emperors was a stylized Reishi. Because of its many benefits for health, Ganoderma was traditionally considered to be amongst the most valuable possessions a new bride could bring into a marriage in ancient China.

Health & Beauty Benefits of Ganoderma

Ganoderma contains lots of bioactive compounds that make these herbal mushrooms innately rich with a.o. analgesic (painkilling), antipyretic (fever-reducing), antimicrobial (killing microorganisms), splenic, cytotoxic (toxic to bad cells) and sedative properties. Main general health benefits  are believed to be a.o.:

• Boosting and regulating the immune system of the body; 
• Detoxifying and strengthening the liver; 
• Normalizing the body’s metabolism rate, energizing the body and help it combat stress;
• Improving overall mood, easing irritability and anxiety, calming the mind, relaxing the body and helping to overcome depression; 
• Preventing the release of histamines in case of allergies (anything from hay fever to atopic dermatitis and anaphylactic shocks); 
• Nourishing the respiratory system in case of a simple cold or even sinusitis or more severe conditions like asthma and bronchitis; 
• Lowering and regulating the blood pressure levels of the body; 
• Easing inflammatory conditions and alleviating and easing the pain that is experienced by the sufferer. 

For skin specifically, Ganoderma is believed to slow down premature aging because of its anti-inflammatory and anti-allergenic agents that empower the immune system and promote blood circulation. A stronger immune system eases free radical activities, which is supposed to reduce wrinkles, fine lines, and inflammations. Improved blood circulation enhances the elasticity and tone of the skin, slowing down the ageing process with a clearer and younger looking skin as a result. In addition, various studies indicate that a large range of external skin issues like sunburns, wounds and rashes can be cured by Ganoderma through harmonized functioning of its anti-histaminic, anti-inflammatory, anti-microbialand anti-allergenic properties.

For hair specifically, the high level of antioxidants, anti-inflammatory properties and improved blood circulation slow down premature hair loss and balding and is believed to promote hair growth and prevent premature graying.

All together that's quite a list!

Soo Beaute - Oriental Herbal Essence Ganoderma Ginseng Mask

I’m trying out a Ganoderma mask with Ginseng from Soo Beaute, a Korean brand renowned for its wide variety of sheet masks. My intention for this post was to research ganoderma instead of ginseng and as I don’t want this post to become too extensive here’s just some short info on Ginseng:

Panax Ginseng, Chinese Ginseng or Korean Ginseng to be exact, is a slow-growing perennial (i.e. living > 2 years - ginseng is believed to be best after 5 years) plant with fleshy roots that grows in the cooler climates of eastern Asia in countries like China, Korea, Bhutan and eastern Siberia.

Ginseng is one of the most highly regarded herbal medicines in Asia. Its roots and leaves are rich in vitamins, minerals and antioxidants, which are good for overall skin health.  According to Eu Yan Sang, Singapore’s Traditional Chinese Medicine specialist store: “Ginseng is a unique root that brightens the skin, prevents UV damage, enhances collagen synthesis, and diminishes signs of ageing”. It is often used to reduce black spots on the face, reduce puffiness of the eyes and to lighten dark circles under the eyes.

The promise of diminishing signs of aging sounds always good; in addition, I think my skin can definitely use some antioxidants after a few nights of extensive dining and clubbing in Hong Kong and Shanghai. 

According to the product description I should leave on the mask for 20-30 minutes, which is quite a long time. Fortunately I have plenty of time as I have planned to spend a night of relaxing in the bath tub of my Shanghai hotel while my husband is out for dinner with business relations. Glass of chilled white wine: check. Newest Vogue: check. Relaxing scented candle; check. I might was well skip the scented candle next time, as the scent of the face mask is overwhelming and unmistakably ginseng. Very strong ginseng. I don’t think I can smell the ganoderma, but then again I have no clue what it smells like.

The fit of the sheet mask is pretty ok; there’s two flaps of sheet under the holes for the eyes that I presume aren’t intended to have a function, but for me they prevent my mascara from smudging on the skin under my eyes so that’s good in case you want to look good while pampering in the tub. The mask itself feels fresh and is very comfortable. The strong scent doesn’t bother me so much and 30 minutes fly.

The result? I feel absolutely reborn – whereas I was in a ‘tired from travelling and partying’ and ‘stressed from work related deadlines’ state before, I now feel totally calm and zen. Awesome. I think my skin isn’t visibly different, but I find the mask works miracles when stressed and tired and in need for some relaxation and invigoration. How do I know it's not just taking a bath that causes this marvelous effect? Well, I'm very much not a bath person and prefer showers as I find these way more relaxing. So if this product works on me taking a bath that in general never relaxes me, it must be the magic mushrooms. Like!!! *Running to the store to get a heap more*

Soo Beaute Oriental Herbal Essence Ganoderma-Ginseng Face Mask
Price: 1,95 SGD
Available at Sasa (find stores here)

Forget the Merlion Key Chains & Nonya Kaya: Cool Asian Beauty Gifts to Bring Back Home during Summer Holidays

Almost summer holidays, meaning a massive migration amongst expats in Singapore that are going home to Europe, the US, Australia or elsewhere outside of Asia. Anticipating on this migration, I find myself picking up increasing amounts of local gifts to bring back home for friends and family. During past visits I already brought back silk kimono’s, chopsticks, all kinds of merchandise with “Can Lah” and local delicacies such as Nonya Kaya. This time I decided to delight the people at home with something more inspiring than another Merlion keychain or Orchid fridge magnet, and -more importantly- stuff that I love myself: Asian Beauty Products. Anything from kawaii cute to Chinese Traditional Medicine weird (from a Western point of view, that is) – find out below what I will bring back home this year!

Etude House “I need you” Sheet Masks

Possibly the cutest sheet masks around that come in a great variety with different ingredients for different purposes: from ‘regulars’ like Tee Tree and Olive Oil to ‘through and through Asian’ like pearl powder, ginseng and snail slime (all very high regarded ingredients within Traditional Chinese Medicine!). These sheet masks can be purchased individually for only 1,90 SGD a piece and make great small gifts; I usually create a set myself by picking 5 Asian ingredients/themes by just wrapping a ribbon around it.

Price: 1,90 SGD
Available at Etude House (find stores here)

It’s Skin – Macaron Tinted Lip and Cheek

A beauty product in the shape of a pink macaron – need I say more?! Besides the cutesy packaging this lip and cheek tint is actually a pretty great product to add a subtle hint of colour on your lips or cheeks; it has a creamy texture and the sweet and delicious scent that "sends happy softness and moisture”.

Price: 10 SGD
Available through Althea (free shipping to Singapore above 50 SGD)

The Face Shop "Myeonghan Miindo" Hwansaenggo Gold Eye Cream

A luxurious gift for your (aging) besties! I first of all love the design of The Face Shop's entire Myeonghan Miindo line, a range of Oriental herbal skincare. This anti-aging eyecream contains 6 year old red ginseng, which is believed to be the highest grade ginseng and is effective to regenerate and slow down the aging process. In addition, the firm and rich cream contains 24K pure gold (250mg) to create bright and resilient skin. Amongst the other wrinkle improving and nourishing essences from traditional Asian plant extracts are camellia oil, lotus flower extract, cordyceps, lingzhi mushroom and fermented bean extract. The Myeonghan Miindo line consist of many other great products in different price categories, starting at 12,90 SGD for a sheet mask. 

N.B. This product contains skin lightening ingredients like licorice extract and niacinamide; these ingredients won't turn you or your friends into pale white ghosts right away, unless you use several products with these ingredients multiple times a day for a longer period of time. In a single eyecream these ingredients won't do any harm to your skin and might even cause good results like lightening up the dark circles under your eyes. Read more about the difference between whitening, lightening and brightening here.

Price: 95 SGD (also available in a gift set - see picture above)

Available at The Face Shop (find stores here)

Majolica Majorca "Lash Gorgeous Wing Neo" Mascara

Mascara formulated with long and short jet black fibers to fill in the gaps between each eyelash for thick, voluminous lashes! So yes, there's actually little pieces of fiber that stick to your eyelashes, like minuscule false lashes with a more natural effect than regular rows of false eyelashes. These fibers stick firmly to your lashes so no worries that the particles will fall into your eyes. I wear contact lenses myself and have no issues whatsoever wearing this product and really love the full voluminous effect it creates (use at least 2 layers of product though). Majolica Majorca is a leading makeup brand in Asia and part of the Shiseido Group - valid arguments to use if your friends initially find the not so Western-looking mascara a bit bizarre (last time I brought this home I was bombarded with a.o."Ieww...did you get this from AliExpress for less than a dollar?!" and "I looks like it has been made in Frankensteins Seoul basement...You seriously expect me to use this?!")

Price: 25,90 SGD

Available at a.o. Watsons (find stores here)

Onsen Japonica "Complete Regimen Box"

Hydrating, nourishing and pampering - this ultimate treat makes the perfect gift for your BFF. An onsen is a Japanese hotspring that the Japanese have been bathing in for centuries already because of the healing powers derived from its mineral content. The products of Onsen Japonica contain pure, certified onsen water that is sourced from the only onsen spring approved by the Japanese government for use in cosmetics. This cool brand offers their complete three-step skincare routine to soothe and rejuvenate the skin at a cellular level in a lovely traditional Japanese Paulownia wooden box. That you actually might want to keep yourself instead of giving it away - happened to me before. Still not convinced? Read my review of Onsen Japonica's Deep Hydrating Cleanser here.

Price: 280 SGD

Available through Onsen Japonica's webshop (free delivery in Singapore) and Sephora's webshop

Piolang "CP-1 Oriental Herbal Hair Cleansing Shampoo & Treatment"

The past decade I have worked in Marketing Communications for several cosmetic brands - as a result, I'm a fool for the incredibly funny Asian product claims and taglines that give me a good laugh and make me love the products even more. Recently I couldn't resist to purchase Piolang's CP-1 Oriental Herbal Hair products as a gift for two another marketing-savvy friends back at home because of the following product promises:

I mean, who can resist "their lover dreaming deep into your subtle scent beside you"?! The products contain a herbal complex consisting of fruits and flowers used in Traditional Chinese Medicine, like Magnolia Kobus Bark extract, Camelia Japonica Seed extract, Evening Primrose extract, Paeonia Suffruticosa root (Moutan or Chinese tree peony) and. In addition, the products contain horse oil – a fascinating ingredient (read my review of a face mask with horse oil here) that is very popular in all kinds of Asian cosmetics.

Price: 16,80 SGD (set of Shampoo + Treatment)

Available through Althea (free shipping to Singapore above 50 SGD)

My Beauty Dairy (Imperial) Bird's Nest Sheet Masks

A true classic and typically South East Asian beauty ingredient: Bird's Nest. Read my review of My Beauty Diary's Imperial Bird's Nest Mask here.

My Beauty Dairy (Imperial) Bird's Nest Mask (10 pcs)
Price: 14,50 SGD

Available at a.o. Watsons (find stores here) & Guardian (find stores here)

Attempts to Weekend Pampering with Skinlite Cooling Cucumber Pads

Slices of cucumber to soothe the skin around your eyes are a true beauty classic - the only disadvantage is that you need to lie down dead still to keep the slippery slices from sliding off your face. In line with Asia’s sheet masks obsession, I came across some Cooling Cucumber Pads with the same benefits for your skin as the real ones but without the mess I suspect... 

I can hear you thinking “why not use real cucumber?!”Well, you can definitely do that to too for a truly natural approach, but for me there are two reasons to try out these eye pads instead. First of all, I find the local Asian cucumbers to be very small, especially the common Japanese and Malay ones; any imported 'regular' sized cucumber from Australia or elsewhere cannot be found everywhere plus these cucumbers are far more expensive than their Asian brothers. Secondly, slices of real cucumber aren’t as flexible as these thin, moist sheets that easily adhere to the shapes of your face seem to be. Sheet mask tend to stick very well to skin, whereas -as said above- real slices of cucumber require you to lie down very still in order to avoid turning yourself into a live salad with pieces of cucumber all over your clothes/bed/sofa etc.

Known skin benefits of cucumber are a.o. to fade dark circles, reduce puffiness under the eyes, treat sunburns and improve the overall complexion.

The Cooling Cucumber Pads come in a reclosable sachet with 10 pre-moistened eye pads (so basically that’s 5 sets  - unless of course you are a pirate): “SKINLITE Cooling Cucumber pads are pre-moistened with real cucumber and other soothing ingredients. When used on top of your eyes, these cucumber pads soothe tired stressed eyes and help reduce puffiness and dark circles.”

Amongst the moisturizing and soothing ingredients are:

• Alba Bark Extract, also known as Berch. Known for its skin healing and purifying properties, yet it also functions as an astringent;
• Portulaca oleracea, commonly known as purslane and Ma Chi Xian; anti-inflammatory, used in treatment of burns, skin pain, itching, eczema and acne. 
• Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract; also known as green tea extract. Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. The anti-bacterial content of green tea helps with acne and skin blemishes, while the anti-inflammatory properties have been known to help with redness, rosacea, and even psoriasis, making green tea extract an energetic skin restoring agent for any skin type.

To maximize its cooling effect, I placed the sachet into the fridge some hours before usage. I then followed the directions on the pack and washed my face and tried to place the pads over my (closed) eyes (you can also apply them on any other face area), after which I should be able lie back and relax to leave pads on for 10-15 minutes. 

The eye pads aren’t as moist and flexible as I expected however, and they keep falling off my face with the slightest movement – just like real slices of cucumber.

The scent is pleasant and fresh and when the pads stay on my closed eyes for a brief moment it feels very soothing, but soon again I struggle with the patches gliding down my neck. Not a success, at least not better than real cucumbers I mean. Placing the pads on my cheeks or forehead is far easier, but here too I need to lay down very still to keep the pads from moving.

Would I use it again? Nah. The pads are fun in a gimmicky way but don’t proof to have real benefits to me.

Skinlite Cooling Cucumber Pads – sachet with 10 pieces
Price: 1,49 SGD
Available at Sasa Cosmetics (find stores here)