At first sight, ‘Pearl’ or ‘Pearl extract’ sounds like a luxurious and far less frightening beauty ingredient than sheep placenta, pig collagen or Bird’s Nest. It could unquestionably belong to the category of products with pure gold or caviar as ingredient (yes – these exist). What refrained me from trying any skincare with pearl, were the results that products with pearl as ingredient promote: brightening and whitening. Is pearl really a whitening agent? Or do products with pearl merely suggest skin lightening, piggybacking on the attractive bright and spotless attributes of pearls? What else does this centuries old ingredient, that has been worshiped in Traditional Chinese Medicine and Ayurveda for ages, do for our skin?
Loved by empress Wu Ze Tian
Pearl Powder is made from crushed fresh or salt water pearls, that are below jewellery grade. In Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) it is used as an anti-inflammatory and detoxification agent, and as a relaxant. The use of pearl powder, both as medicine and as cosmetic, dates back to empress Wu Ze Tian (625 AD – 705 AD). The empress used pearl powder internally and on her skin, and was famed for her impeccable complexion.
In ancient India, pearl powder was used in Ayurvedic medicine. Earliest sources go back to 1240, when pearl was praised as an antidote to poisons, cured conditions of the eyes and increased general strength and health. In addition, powdered pearl was an ingredient of love potions as well.
For skin in particular, pearl powder is believed to stimulate the skin’s fibroblasts, help regenerate collagen, and accelerate healing of damaged skin because of the following active substances:
- Amino acids; Fundamental constituents of all proteins found in the body, nourish skin from within to be healthy, smooth and clear. Some amino acids have antioxidant properties and wound-healing abilities as well;
- Vitamin B Complex: Helps to maintain the vitality and energy of the skin cells;
- Trace minerals: Over 20 different kinds, amongst which are Zinc, Calcium, Magnesium and Iron, that aid in the proper functioning of the skin cells;
- Antioxidants: Help to counter the cell-damaging and aging effects of free radicals.
Pearl powder is furthermore believed (some studies have been done but not much details can be found) to whiten the complexion. The common assumption is that pearl powder enhances the activity of superoxide dismutase (SOD), which is one of the strongest antioxidant enzymes in our body. SOD acts as a tyrosinase inhibitor, through which formation of pigmentation is prevent and reduced. Technically, this would categorize pearl powder as a “lightening” agent instead of a “whitening” agent (see my blog on the differences between Whitening, Lightening and Brightening skincare)
Although I have absolutely no intention or desire to lighten my skin, I do want to try pearl powder to see what it does and feels like – and maybe even become famed for my flawless complexion like empress Wu…
PRODUCT REVIEW:
Etude House “I need you, Pearl!” Bright Complexion Mask Sheet
Packaging
The packaging of this face mask from South Korean cosmetic brand ‘Etude House’ (over 100 boutique outlets throughout South East Asia) looks incredibly cute: a baby pink sachet with darker pink sea shell drawings, and of course some big, lustrously glowing pearls are depicted as well. I really love this type of sweet, princess-like, girly look for products, but I do realize it’s not for everyone.
The text printed on the front of the sachet is in Korean except for “Etude House”, “Pearl” and “Bright Complexion”, but reading the text on the back I learn that this product is actually called “I need you, Pearl”, which I find –again- just too cute.
On the back of the pack, it briefly states that the mask contains “Pearl Extract (Hydrolized Pearl) full of amino acids and minerals, to brighten up dull skin for a bright and clear complexion”. The list of ingredients confirms this; it contains Hydrolized pearl indeed, 20 mg to be exact. Other ingredients that are worth noting are Grapefruit Extract, that serve a brightening peeling function, exactly what the mask promises.
The product
Upon opening of the sachet, the mask feels very wet and sticky; there's a lot of product absorbed in the sheet, and also quite a lot of the gel-like product is left behind in the sachet after taking the sheet mask out of it. I initally feared that it's another one of those masks that annoyingly keeps dropping from your chin the entire 15-20 minutes when applied to your face (and hinders you to do anything else in the meantime, because of the sticky liquid trace you leave behind with every movement you make), but fortunately this was not the case. Once applied, no dropping on the floor or your clothes. The product is translucent, non scented and has a formula that reminds me of a serum.
I'm not a fan of the way the sheet mask fits, I know I have a rather long, oval and very non-Asian face, but the shape of the sheet makes me wonder if it was designed for toddlers or midgets - small and round. My Western nose is more or less halfway covered and my eyes are struggling for sight.
Not so great fit; my eyes struggling for sight. Look especially at that poor right eye, lashes trying to peek out from underneath the mask...(right eye on the mirror selfie left; left eye for the viewers in the right picture - still following? :))
Results:
As far as I can see, none. The hours after I used the mask (after massaging the residue product from the sheet into my skin) my skin looks a bit greasy, at least not bright and fresh as I expected. The morning after, after cleansing, no results are visible either. Will I use it again? No. Which is a pity because I absolutely adore the cute and girly look of the product.
Upon opening of the sachet, the mask feels very wet and sticky; there's a lot of product absorbed in the sheet, and also quite a lot of the gel-like product is left behind in the sachet after taking the sheet mask out of it. I initally feared that it's another one of those masks that annoyingly keeps dropping from your chin the entire 15-20 minutes when applied to your face (and hinders you to do anything else in the meantime, because of the sticky liquid trace you leave behind with every movement you make), but fortunately this was not the case. Once applied, no dropping on the floor or your clothes. The product is translucent, non scented and has a formula that reminds me of a serum.
I'm not a fan of the way the sheet mask fits, I know I have a rather long, oval and very non-Asian face, but the shape of the sheet makes me wonder if it was designed for toddlers or midgets - small and round. My Western nose is more or less halfway covered and my eyes are struggling for sight.
Results:
As far as I can see, none. The hours after I used the mask (after massaging the residue product from the sheet into my skin) my skin looks a bit greasy, at least not bright and fresh as I expected. The morning after, after cleansing, no results are visible either. Will I use it again? No. Which is a pity because I absolutely adore the cute and girly look of the product.
Etude House “I need you, Pearl!” Bright Complexion Mask Sheet
Price: 1,90 SGD
Available at Etude House Boutiques (find Stores), around 16 outlets in Singapore.
Price: 1,90 SGD
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